Monday, July 5, 2010

life, death and resurrection

July 4


7:00 am Well i slept like a baby in the small village of Santa Lucia in guatemala’s highlands. Elevation about 9000 feet so it gets cold at night. Yesterday Julio’s brother brought over a rooster and two chickens, alive carried under the arms of his girls. Lunch for tomorrow! This morning i awoke to the crowing of the rooster, he crowed at least 100 times, i went out to see them and wished them well on their journey to the next world. An hour later i looked out the window onto the patio and saw the chickens already featherless with Julio’s brother standing over a steaming pot of hot water containing the bodies of three said chickens. This is a reality of life here in Santa Lucia. If you want chicken you buy it live, so you know the quality, you know what kind of life the chicken had, you kill it, prepare it, cook it and serve it with love to your family. These chickens cost 80 quetzales each, about $10 USD. It seems alot considering the monthly salary of Elsa, Julio’s sister who is a director of a school for hundreds of children and works 6 days a week is about $150 US. So you can see chicken is a luxury here. I think they plan on making a huge pot of the legendary Guatemalan chicken soup for lunch later today. Today is also market day in Santa Lucia, i plan to walk around and enjoy the sights. Longing for mangos...i’ll see what i can find....i’ll keep you posted.

11 am: Walk through the corn field high high up, small paths up and down small ravines, corn fields on the steepest slopes, amazing views, on top of the world.  Divine.  no mangos in the market, apparently it's past season, i refuse to believe it. 

1:00 pm:  Walked back home to a huge pot of chicken soup.  The broth delicious, the chicken quite chewy, included the feet and a head or two, which i did not try.   I drank the broth and veggies and skipped the chicken.  It was just a little hard in many ways.

Much love from the land where everything is real.

Dor

Friday, July 2, 2010

Spanish for four weeks is not enough!

Some photos of my last week here in Xelaju, Guatemala where i studied hard for 4 weeks. Grasping another language as an adult is no easy task, I HAD NO IDEA!! My teachers were patient, full of laughter, a saving grace was translating poetry by a mayan poet from a small village close to here, simple nature based poetry that was easy for me to grasp. On paper i can do much more than i can actually speak. The next two weeks i vow to practice speaking as much as i can. It's a hard go to feel confident in actually being able to be understood. I know more than i did before i came, much more, and for that i am glad. I met amazing people at the school and plan to bring a group back here next year for a programme of spanish learning and some travelling around the country, seeking to understand.

I have two more weeks which will involve some travel, to Santa Lucia, Julio's village, to Antigua to meet up with Pam and Emily from St. Andrew's Wesley. I get to help them out for a day at Safe Passage!!! Then a trip into the Quiche to visit Emilie at the Peace House, Betty at the school in Chinique and a trip into the northern Quiche with julio, a place i have not been.

I'll be back in Canada on July 18.

Much love and affection, miss you all and Canada but LOVE it here.

Dor


with  my teacher Eduardo

Friday, June 18, 2010

photos of the last week....

a walk through fields of vegetables in the rain with fellow students

flower/vegetable market in zunil.  i have never seen carrots so big.  the apparently use alot of chemicals. 

What it's like studying in Xela.  My favourite place:  cafe luna.  the best hot chocolate in the world, a notebook, flashcards, a good pen and time.  it is good.  A pie,  means on foot.
mary guarding the back of a chicken bus window.

Read if planning to go on a resort vacation......this is the way it is.....

The way it is.........


It has been a long winter. You sit at your desk looking out onto a bleak landscape of cold and snow. There has been no sun for 5 days in your world. You yearn to get away. You deserve it, a vacation, a blissful place in a warm climate where all your cares will melt away. On your hour long paid lunch hour break you click through holiday websites. You surf for a while checking out one beautiful resort after another: Jamaica, Mexico, Cuba, the Dominican Republic....you see yourself there easily. You choose the place, an amazing deal, all inclusive. Excitement builds as you enter your visa card number paying for your vacation in full. You leave in 4 days. Flight, hotel, all meals, unlimited beverages, pickup from the airport, comfort, soft bed, clean beyond belief, secure, a compound of luxury, no worries, guaranteed sun.

You have four days to get ready for the big adventure, you buy new clothes and shoes, you buy travel medical insurance, you anticipate great things. You organize your things in your new luggage. You know you are taking too much, but you don’t have to carry your bag so why not take all that you will need and more? Some one else will take care of it.

The day of your departure is again a bleak day. The flight is full of people just like you, heading to their dream vacation in the sun. Pale faced Canadians desperate for a chance to let go and relax. You pass through customs with ease. All you need is your valid passport, the agent doesn’t even ask you a single question, just smiles and gives your passport a stamp and welcomes you to the island. As promised a friendly local who speaks English is there to pick you up with a big sign with your name on it. You get into a new air-conditioned bus with other tourists and head to the resort. On the way you pass by a small town, the houses small, the children playing on the side of the road, they seem happy. These are dirt roads, and there’s a lot of garbage on the side of the road. You wonder why the people here don’t take care of where they live? You catch glimpses of small yards, old doors, a window open, smoke coming from the stovepipes in the roofs of the small houses, a bedraggled dog sleeping in the sun. You give no thought to what life is like for the families living there, what their struggles and their joys are. Soon enough you arrive at the large entrance of the resort with two armed guards at the gatehouse. The van driver pulls into a beautiful tropical paradise, a paved road leads you to the lobby of the resort. You check in with ease and spend some time exploring the grounds which are immaculately kept. You take in with contented eyes the pools, the bars, the ocean, and the beach. You see other people who look just like you. You head to your room and enjoy the bottle of chilled champagne that was left for you. This will be your world for the next seven days. You don’t give much thought to the people who have made all of this possible for you, they all seem really friendly and welcoming. It’s great that they can have jobs at this resort. You feel good about the fact that they can work here. You give no thought to the fact that the chambermaid has never in her life travelled on an airplane and never will and that for her “vacation” is a word that has no meaning.

You swim in the pool with its swim up bar, enjoying the fruits of your labours. You gaze out over the ocean not realizing that the raw sewage from the hotel is pumped directly into the ocean in the next cove. There are no regulations that would address this issue in this country. You eat at a buffet table laden with food three times a day, eating your fill over and over, not worrying about where this food came from, not knowing that all of it was shipped here from the United States and none of it is local produce supporting the local economy. You give no thought to the fact that all the food that doesn’t get eaten gets thrown away. The people who work here cannot eat it or take it home for their families. That is against the hotel’s policy. You drink your fill of pina colada, cuba libre, banana mama’s...all are specially created for you by the handsome bartender who asks you about your day. You chat to him about all the amazing things you have encountered. You give no thought to the fact that he is bored of hearing about the adventures of the gringos. You don’t worry about what it’s like to work in the sugar cane fields where the rum begins it’s life. You come back to your room each day after a day at the beach and see it is spotlessly clean. You are grateful but don’t give much thought to the woman who carefully made your bed, who folded your towels into swans, who scrubbed your toilet. It is so nice to be so well taken care of. You sleep well in this island paradise. You savour each day. You wear an arm bracelet that you need to keep in full view when you are at the resort. You are marked and safe, you belong here. You take an offered excursion mid week to the local market in town. It’s a hot and dirty place but they offer a lot of nice weavings and hand made crafts. The venders call to you as you walk through the rows and rows of stalls. Each stall looks the same. You stop and make a great deal with a woman selling blankets. You bargain her down, walking away when the price isn’t low enough, she follows you through the market conceding on the price you will pay. She says gracias gringa. You give no thought to the conditions that exist so that a blanket can be made and sold for such a small price. You give no thought to what the woman goes home to after her 14 hours at the market. You don’t wonder if her children are hungry or if they can afford to go to school. You don’t really understand what the term gringa means to the woman. You adore the blanket you just bought and the deal you received. You walk away with a smile and a wave not understanding what she is saying to you.

Time passes quickly at the resort; there are plenty of activities to keep you busy. Snorkelling, sailing, games on the beach, drinking contests, massages, live shows each night all led by smiling enthusiastic staff of the resort. You fail to really notice the tattered shorts of the snorkelling guide, the worn down shoes of the woman who organizes the spa, the broken smile of the man who gathers the gringos for a drinking game at the beach.

The week comes to a close. You spend your last few hours soaking up the sun and having your final drinks by the pool. You go to around to each of the staff and give them each a $1 tip. You feel good that you can help them in this way. As you leave the van takes the dirt road back to the airport, you notice what seems like the same children playing in the dirt, the same old men sitting at the corner. You wave to a group of people as the van stops for a moment, they return your wave with a stare. You feel something, something cold in that moment. You look away. The airport departure and arrival in your homeland are as smooth as they were when you left. Welcome Home says the Canada Customs Agent. Your bags arrive safely brought there by many working hands who you give no thought to. You arrive at your home after a taxi ride with a driver who has the same accent as the people on the island you’ve just come from. You ask him if he is from there and yes he is. Have you been home much? No he says he has not. You arrive at your door and walk into your home. You are home, this is the way it is....

What did you choose not to see? What did you see and choose to ignore?

written after viewing a film on the tourism industry in jamacia. 

Thursday, June 10, 2010

Xelaju










Well it's been 4 days of language school and there have been times of complete spiraling darkness as i can't imagine comprehending all of this and then some light moments of laughter with my teacher, hilarious mistakes i've made when talking with my family and a sense finally after day 4 that i can possibly do this.

I'm the oldest student here which is an interesting dynamic, most are ya's (just like work....) but i have been applying myself and just getting my head around the sounds and how people speak. Reading from a book is a completely different experience than trying to understand what a native speaker says.

I have a great connection with my teacher who is mayan and full of interesting topics. When my brain is ready to explode we go for a walk and discover something new, like the names of streets and how you say 1st Avenue.

Julio gave me a great orientation to Xelaju (Mayan name) and Quezaltenango to the spanish. I can navigate my way around this city of app. 300,000. My family has a beautiful new house (the nicest by far on the block) and i have a lovely room with a bed that isn't a total crouton.

The school is amazing. Very political, was founded by a group of ex-guerillas 25 years ago and does great work in teaching us spanish but also educating us on the reality of the conflict.


My typical day:


wake up at 6 ish

eat breakfast at 7:15 am

Walk to school with Teresa (the mother of the house who is a teacher here and Marite who is 9)

Drop Marite off at school

8 am start class

10:30 am bread and coffee break

11 am back to class

1 pm walk home and have lunch with mi familia (main meal of the day)

relax after lunch

3 pm go to a lecture at the school or a fieldtrip

7 pm head home for a simple dinner

Have an english lesson with Marite.

9 pm go to sleep or meet some students at a cafe


Julio was here on Tuesday to give a lecture at the school, he did a great job talking about trauma in general and then the details of the trauma that is still being experienced here each day. He talked about the history of his family and the healing process all of us can experience. We had a lovely day exploring Xela, eating amazing food at a french restaurant and drinking beer at Xela's only microbewery (it's been there since the 50's) and still looks the same. Julio said when he was going to highschool in Xela, he and his brother saved up for 2 months to be able to go to and have a beer. What must it be like to have lived like that and now to live in such a different way?

I'm trying to learn as much as i can while i'm here. The school has an amazing library of books in English and i'm reading alot about the conflict and the effects that live on today. Many of the lectures are on the topic of the civil war. I'm developing a little experiential workshop on the history of guatemala for participants coming down on tour to come and i'm getting alot of ideas.

Tomorrow we are having an international dinner and friday graduation for students who are finishing their time here. We all have to bring something, i'm the only canadian out of about 25 americans....WHAT SHOULD I BRING?? Easy, no oven, ingrediants available here....ANY IDEAS???


I'm so blessed to be here.
Sending you love from the place where God is known as the Heart of Heaven and Heart of Earth.
Dor
julio outside his highschool, a visit back after 25 years...

Sunday, June 6, 2010

Back in Guatemala June 2010


the pan american highway this is the road into San Lucas that some of you may remember......


Xela=Quetzaltenango




On my fourth day in guatemala and all is familiar and all is strange at the same time.


Julio met me well in the capital, we stayed in a modest and very old hotel in the centro ($15 for two) then the first morning took the bus to Xela, the second largest city in guatemala which will be my base for the next 4 weeks and i seriously study.


Hurricane Agatha did so much damage here, it wasn't evident in the capital but on the Pan American highway to Xela (5 hours) there were alot of detours, water on the road and walls of mud. There is a huge relief effort happening here, yesterday they had a big drive in the square for people to drop off items for the victims.


On the bus ride here we passed by the highest elevation on the road 3,030 meters, about 9,000 feet, pretty much the top of the world. I felt the altitude on the first two days, with a pounding head and really tired, emotional, overwhelmed. I've acclimatized well and today looks so much better. Weeping in a cemetary on Julio's shoulder helped. It's also the process of culture shift. I've never been to this city before and it really belongs to the guatemalans, there are few tourists and it's easy to feel like the outsider here. Staring school will help too. I head there today at 2 pm to meet my host family and get settled. Then class starts tomorrow at 8 am.


I'll be studying from 8 am - 1 pm, then a break and afternoon activities with the school. We will no doubt be doing some work with the restoration after the storm. I'm open to helping and doing anything that needs to be done.


My spanish is already getting stronger and that feels excellent. I'm looking forward to knowing more and being a part of something bigger at the school.




Be well wherever you are.


I'll keep you posted.




Dor


Thursday, February 12, 2009

A big Thank you!
Thanks to all of you who donated to the school in Chinique, Quiche, Guatemala. In January I visited the school bringing with me a huge suitcase full of spanish language book and a stack of money. I stayed with Betty the school principal and was warmly welcomed into her home. I wish you could meet Betty and that you could have been there to have tortillas and beans in her kitchen with her listening to her talk about her students and her work with a deep passion. She works so hard running the school and teaching older students in the evenings! She was so grateful for the donations and overwhelmed at the generousity.
The donations you all gave will in part be used to buy more books for the school and in part to pay some of the school fees for students who would otherwise not be able to attend school. A chance at education is the greatest gift we can ever give!
January is summer holidays in Guatemala and it's when the coffee harvest happens so many students were off working with their families to bring the coffee in. January is like September, the beginning of the school year in Guatemala. While school fees are very small in our world of money, the app. $50 yearly fee is prohibitive to most families who often have to choose which one of their children will attend since they can afford to send only one child to school. What a hard choice. Thanks to you and your generous support not only will the students at the school have some amazing books to read for pleasure, but some of them will be able to attend school who wouldn't have had the chance. I'll be back to visit the school in July again, and Betty will give me photos and progress reports for the students you helped to sponsor, i'll post more information then.
Thanks again for opening your hearts and responding to my little project. Your gifts have made a huge difference to individual children and to a simple country school in Guatemala. It's through these small person to person connections that real change can happen in our countries and in our hearts! Thanks for being a part of this kind of change.

I'd particularly like to thank the youth group at Shaughnessy Heights United Church who put on an amazing bottle auction and dessert evening fundraiser, raising over $1000 in one night for the project! You are amazing!


The School for Grades 6-8
Doris and Rinna (my travelling friend) at the entrance to town.

Happy Betty with books and donations....